Luxe leader: Tomas Maier

The jewel in Gucci’s crown

Meet Tomas Maier, the man responsible for turning Bottega Veneta into the star horse of the Gucci Group’s stable

By Zahra Khan

What happens when a brand marries anonymity with exclusivity? The result is a stunningly simple success story called Bottega Veneta.

Founded in the Italian town of Vicenza in 1966, Bottega Veneta was the accessory du jour of the Studio 54 era (reportedly, Andy Warhol only bought Christmas presents for friends from its New York store). A chequered couple of decades later, today Bottega is the No. 2 brand in the Gucci Group’s stable of luxury labels.

And the man behind this success story is its German-born creative director, Tomas Maier.

In the six years since the Gucci Group bought Bottega Veneta and hired Maier, he has transformed it from a tiny luxury handbag and luggage company into a brand to reckon with. With annual revenues up 49 per cent in 2007 and a growth of 69 per cent the prior year, Bottega’s performance has been nothing short of spectacular. Sales figures estimated to chalk up US $238 million are proof enough.

Making ‘stealth wealth’ chic

“Labels are distracting-they make it hard to see a thing for what it really is,” declares Tomas, when we ask him why he cuts off labels from his personal ensembles. Perhaps it’s this same philosophy that explains why Bottega is one of the few luxury brands to steer clear of flashy logos. Maier’s steadfast approach to design (no logos) and clear positioning (discreet luxury) has turned it into one of the most aspirational luxury brands in the world.

Says Tomas, “It’s more a sensibility than a philosophy. I’ve always loved beautiful craftsmanship and understated luxury. When I began at Bottega Veneta, I knew there were men and women who would prefer discreet, personal, beautifully made things.”

This sensibility means that the brand frequently dabbles in bespoke services for discerning patrons. “We often work with clients to create custom-made items, and we offer many ways to personalise our products. Our goal is for our clients to have a product that reflects their own individual style,” he adds.

Artistic vision

Bottega is a brand whose products are recognised by the way they are made; whether it’s the signature Intrecciato woven-leather Cabat bag, which takes two days for two artisans to make from about 70 leather strips, or its fine jewellery of woven, yellow-gold chain necklaces and bracelets set with diamonds that are put through a tumbler for two days to dull the shine.

It’s no wonder then that as the company continues to grow, its commitment to artisans remains constant. In 2006, the brand opened a school to train and support future generations of leather artisans in its hometown of Vicenza.

“Bottega Veneta has deep roots in the Veneto region of Italy and the tradition of artisanal leatherwork that exists there. We created La Scuola Della Pelletteria Bottega Veneta as a commitment to the future of this increasingly rare tradition, and also to the future of the company. Our goal is to provide training and support for future generations of artisans because Bottega Veneta’s artisans are our greatest resource,” says Maier.

Bottega recently made its foray into India, but even though logo-worship is a genuine religion in India, Maier is confident Bottega’s ‘stealth wealth’ attitude will become popular. “I’m confident that we’ll find our customer here. The Indian luxury market is growing quickly and the level of cultural sophistication is extraordinary. We already have many Indian customers, but they’ve had to buy Bottega Veneta abroad. Now they can find us at home,” he says.